Nuwara Eliya (pronounced as one word) is often referred to as ‘Little England’ and it is easy to see why. This beautiful city in hill country in Central Provence is full of quintessentially British charms and with the addition of the temperate climate, it’s a welcome change if like me, you struggle in the heat!
It is a truth universally acknowledged that all Brits LOVE tea and being a stereotype, tea was one of the things I was most looking forward to in Sri Lanka and it has not disappointed. The first tea plantation in Ceylon (Sri Lanka) was cultivated in 1867 by James Taylor, having made a trip over to India to learn about tea plantations. From here the business boomed.
Nuwara Eliya is world renouned for tea and if you have the time in Sri Lanka I would definitely recommend visiting the tea plantations here instead of Ella. 2 days is a good length of time to spend here and below is my suggested itinerary:
- Visit Victoria Park
- Tour of a tea factory and estate
- Lover’s Leap waterfall
- Take high tea at the Grand Hotel
- Horton’s Plains
- Walk around the racecourse and down past the lake
- Botanical gardens
- Onwards train from Nanu Oya to Ella
Visit Victoria Park
Victoria Park is a public park by the centre of town and a nice place to walk around and sit and read a book. Compared to the rest of our trip around Sri Lanka, Nuwara Eliya was a good place to wind down and relax a little, so take the most of these opportunities.
Despite being a public park, tourists are expected to pay entry to maintain the park and this is a common theme in Nuwara Eliya, even some footpaths have tourist fees!
Also the disadvantage to this is that often it is all fenced off so there is only one clear entrance and exit and you essentially become trapped, so to get out we cheekily jumped a bit of fencing by the bus station in order to get out without having to go all the way around and along the main road again.
Tour of tea factory and estate
On the drive in to Nuwara Eliya we passed hundreds of tea estates as we winded our way around the hill sides passing through plantations with very English names, my favourites being Devon, Somerset and Blackpool!
Just out of the main centre of Nuwara Eliya there are tea plantations as far as the eye can see and some are better renowned than others and produce better quality teas (so do your research before hand – we were advised against the main ones such as Bluefield Tea Factory on the road from Kandy) and instead were recommended Pedro Estate by a few Sri Lankans. It may not be the most picturesque but it was very convenient; just a short tuk-tuk ride from town and a short walk over to Lover’s Leap waterfall.
Many reviews discredit Pedro on the basis that it is not as beautiful and has some pylons running through the plantation. This is true, however, I don’t think it dampend the experience at all as we had already seen the untouched, picturesque plantations on our 3 hour drive to Nuwara Eliya. Also, I think it’s impossible to expect a fully operating tea factory next to a town not to have pylons.. this is 2018 and although some people are searching for that fully Nomadic experience we are about 100 years too late.
We actually met a lovely French couple who were going to try find a smaller and less corporate plantation, however, most of the tea production in Sri Lanka is government controlled and have certain standards to meet. You can’t always sure that what you’re getting is 100% fair trade and that people aren’t over-worked but I believe the larger estates will be better at maintaining workers rights. Pedro, at least from the outside, appeared to try and uphold these values.
Also, it turns out Prince Philip visited in 1954 and if its good enough for Phil, then it’s good enough for me!
Whichever tea factory you visit it will be an amazing experience. We learnt so much about tea that I’ve filled about 3 pages of my travel diary just with interesting facts.
Also, I was exceptionally lucky to be travelling with a fellow tea-addict. Normally, we are proud Yorkshire Tea girls but I have to admit, since my return I have only been drinking black Sri Lankan tea.
Lovers Leap Waterfall
Just over the road from Pedro Tea Estate is Lovers Leap waterfall.
We were short of time when visiting as wanted to get back in time for tea (yes – more tea! But this time of the afternoon variety) so we actually asked our tuk-tuk driver Samanta to take us up. This is definitely not accessible in a car as the roads are very narrow and bumpy but after nothing but trekking for our first week I rather enjoyed the bumpy tuk-tuk ride.
Now for anyone like me who just thought Lover’s Leap was a lovely name it has a bit of a darker story attached. It is a small waterfall which got its local name as it was the rumoured point where a prince and his fiancee jumped to their deaths after they were refused the right to marry….. maybe not such a sweet name after all.
High Tea at the Grand Hotel
The only thing better than tea, is tea with all the trimmings, aka. an English Afternoon Tea. Coming from Yorkshire and being a frequenter of Betty’s I know I probably have high expectations when it comes to this and The Grand Hotel did not disappoint.
A beautiful establishment and very colonial. It reminded me of being in Kenya and some of the hotels we stayed at with a traditional facade, decadent interior, bellboys and chauffeurs. I have never seen so many waiters, overstaffed is probably an understatement and working in the NHS it is something completely foreign to me!
Initially our intention was to sit on the front lawn and take tea in front of the hotel but the waiters (who were obviously more knowledgeable then us) wanted us to sit closer to the hotel and we took a seat of the veranda.
Lucky we took their advice as the weather in Nuwara Eliya can change. Like I said previously it is much cooler than the rest of Sri Lanka, with low cloud cover that often creeps down in the afternoon until you are surrounded by a blanket of mist… glad we didn’t stay on the lawn!
High tea at the grand was perfect, just what we needed the day after climbing Adam’s Peak. It is served from half past 3 and as we were enjoying it so much we stayed the entire afternoon and then decided to treat ourselves to a cocktail each… when in Rome.
The highlight of the hotel, despite the incredible tea, stunning on-site jewellers and beautiful interiors, were the toilets. They deserve a mention as they were such a welcome change and were the only toilets of the trip that we awarded a 10/10 – yes, we graded toilets but this is an important element to travelling.
I know for a fact it was a highlight as when I flicked though Becky’s photos it appears we both took snaps of the loo; it was just that good!
Many people if they are short for time often cut Nuwara Eliya out of their trip and instead visit tea plantations around Ella. However, Horton Plains is a good enough reason on its own to visit here.
It is a nation park about an hours drive from the city and boast beautiful views including the famous World’s End. Unlike the rest of Sri Lanka this reminded me more of African Plains than anything I have come across before in Asia, the park being split into two distinct categories, the grasslands and the evergreen forests.
Even if you just stop off overnight and do a morning hike around the plains and then catch the train onwards I think it would be worth it. It is completely unique.
Horton Plains is best seen early morning just as the sun is rising and the whole landscape is surrounded by cloud forest: a thin layer of cloud that covers the floor and transforms this place into something magical.
If you’re planning a visit, you will need a driver, the roads are just not made for tuk-tuks. We actually stopped to pick up some German tourists whose taxi had broken down on the way.
The two main attractions of the park are the viewpoint at World’s End and Baker’s Falls. With a name like Worlds End you would expect a rather impressive view and it doesn’t disappoint.
It is at World’s End that Horton Plains comes to a sudden end, as a stunning vista overlooking the escarpment. Sitting on the edge of the precipice it is easy to see how this place got it’s name.
Depending on which way you are walking there is also a smaller but equally lovely viewpoint ‘Little World’s End’ you will come across. It is a circular walk around the park, we took a left turn on entry which took us to this first, then the larger and finally round to the falls. I personally think this was a better way to see it as in my mind the viewpoints were more impressive and if you are a quick walker you can miss the crowds.
Baker’s Falls, named after the famed Samuel Baker who attempted to settle in Nuwara Eliya and build an agricultural village, is a pretty waterfall within the national park. At only 20 metres it is by no means the most impressive but the setting is lovely and a great way to break up the hike by taking the short walk down and back again to see them.
As previously mentioned the weather in Nuwara Eliya can be unpredictable and an early morning walk here is essential. If you arrive any later than 9 or 10 am it is unlikely you will see anything at all due to the dense cloud cover often referred to as the ‘white wall’. The park opens at 6am and is an hours drive from town, so it is best to make an early start. Even though we left at 5.15, when we arrived the queue of traffic to get into the park was unbelievable. Although our driver said this was the longest he had seen, it is worth setting off a little earlier so that when it hits 6am you are front of the queue to get through and get hiking sooner, before the swarms of tourists.
By 9am there must have been thousands of people at the reserve, both international and domestic tourists.
A fast pace goes a long way so I’m thankful I was with the Machine Mason who loves a yomp as much as I do.
Racecourse and Lake
My favourite feature of Little England was the racecourse, proud of place in the middle, it even had a grandstand. Although used infrequently for one or two races a year, it was a nice touch, especially for Becky whose granddad is a racehorse trainer… Lets just say the ponies out there wouldn’t quite be up to scratch in a UK meeting.
As we were walking through they actually had the racecourse in use for a sports day with all the governors sat watching and the tannoy announcing the next house events. I could not stop smiling as this was scarily reminiscent of home and yet we were in the middle of Sri Lanka.
The main difference between this scene and home was that a few rouge horses which had been running around the fields, were being chased away by dogs and some of the maintenance team. I’m not sure our school groundskeeper would have been quite so relaxed in this position!
Lake Gregory is slightly further away from town past the racecourse and has that air of British summer times past. There are more ponies around the lake and pedelo swans, as well as picnic spots and well maintained childrens play areas. The perfect place for a summer getaway and mainly utilised by the Sri Lankas, both local and tourists which is amazing to see.
The disadvantage with the lake is, like Victoria Park, you have to pay to walk around it. And yes there is no way around…. I hate breaking rules but we couldn’t see a way in and all around it is fenced off, even with barbed wire in some places. So, Becky and I tried to jump over for a closer look, before being chased away by a security guard – yes, they actually have guards patrolling the lake!
So I would be lying if I said we actually walked alongside the lake, we didn’t. Being cheap (and yes I’m aware it’s probably pennies) we walked along the road adjacent to it instead and got just as good a look at what was going on.
I’ve added this to my list of things to do in 48 hours but having said this, if there is one thing to cut out of the itinerary if you are worried about time, it would be this.
The gardens were unremarkable and although lovely to walk around and sit and read a book, Kandy botanical gardens are equally as good. Also, unfortunately as with the UK because Nuwara Eliya is higher, it has a more variable climate. This brings more distinct seasons and with it, good and bad times to see the gardens.
I was desperate to see the rose gardens but these, along with a lot of the other enticing subsections to the garden do not come into season until May. Therefore my advice would be to visit during Spring and see the gardens in full bloom and they will be beautiful, otherwise it is nice to kill some time but is also quite expensive to visit if none of the displays are actually in flower.
Nanu Oya is the closest station to Nuwara Eliya and the only way to travel from here and onwards to Ella is by train. It is a must. For more travel tips/ advice on this check out my ‘Essential Guide to Travelling Sri Lanka’.
The Travel Stuff
Nuwara Eliya has lots to offer and is completely unique compared to the rest of Sri Lanka, from the climate to the people. Over half it’s population are actually of Indian Tamil origin and this also has a notable impact on the community. There is not as much to offer in the way of Sinhalese cuisine (I was dismayed), instead lots of Indian restaurants and street food. Also, to me there seemed to be a more obvious class divide between the workers and the wealthy living in the larger, typically British houses.
As a result, we were warned by our host to be careful in the evenings as some of the locals have been known to drink and she had mentioned of one or two female tourists who had been walking around had been targeted. This is not something to put you off, it felt a completely safe place to walk around during the day but just to beware it does have a different atmosphere to the rest of Sri Lanka and as a female traveller who often goes solo travelling I would want to pass this advice on. As I said, there is not much in the way of eateries or anything that would particularly entice you out past dark so my advise would be to avoid it unless necessary or grab a tuk-tuk back from town after dinner.
The other thing to be aware of, as I’ve already mentioned is the higher tourist prices that we noticed here more than anywhere else. They maintain the city well and therefore the odd tourist fee is expected but the gardens and the reserve are fairly expensive. If you’re travelling on your own you might want to look into that before you go, or if I were travelling solo just go for the day, try and grab a taxi with some others for an early morning hike around the plains, view a tea factory and then catch the train onwards.
I hope you enjoy Nuwara Eliya and happy travels!
If you decide to follow this at all let me know how you get on. x